Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and lively culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always defined its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children are unwilling to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to discover these narratives and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
